Last time we entered Grenada, Mississippi we arrived by rail on the City of New Orleans, and a few minutes south the train broke down on a siding in the stifling summer stew. No air conditioning. No food. No toilets.

Outside our Pullman window alligators begged me to come to the vestibule, inches above their bayou home, and there maybe I would swelter and swoon off the platform into their waiting jaws. Big food.

This time we took our time in Grenada and found a Sunday soul food dinnervana at Crystal’s Diner. Fried chicken, mustard greens, mashed potatoes, heavenly bread. We were poorly dressed compared to the patrons who had just left church. No matter. They welcomed us warmly. Sated, we thanked Crystal and her crew, said goodbye to our new friends and headed South toward the Big Easy, crossing the Pontchartrain at sunset.

Twin bridges stretch From Mandeville to the horizon, straight as a string for 24 miles, the longest span over water in the world. The bridge is so straight I took a nap while driving toward the Big Easy for more big food.