The Undercliff Grill & Bar is cool and inviting, in its campy cave chic. The locals keep coming back for the food. I know why. The French onion soup comes protected by a helmet of Gruyère cheese that could stand up a pitchfork. My eyes feasted on the décor: race cars and surf boards, airplanes and hornets nests, and classic cameos of Elvis, Marilyn and James Dean. In fact, a trip to the men’s restroom turns into an adventure, just looking at the photos of Marilyn Monroe on the walls. Somebody said the greatest bathroom in the world is in Branson, at Shoji Tabuchi’s theater. They haven’t been to the Undercliff. I emerged from the bathroom shaken, but not stirred, as a freight train rumbled past the picture window.